Surf beach was a brilliant find. Tucked away north of Gaviota is a local break I stumbled upon. Roll over the hill and all you can see is waves….an maybe one surfer in them. So glassy and beautiful little barrels on beach. Now that’s what I’m talking about. It happens so rarely in Southern Cali that days like this are stored in your memory forever. I take a brief minute to photo document some of these beauties and then suit up for my first cold water surf since last spring. I am one of two people in the water and I couldn’t be happier. Charles, my friend after about two minutes conversation, decides to inform me that these are sharky waters….not only sharky but tells me a local surfer, just two months prior, was nibbled…(I was thinking the seals were cute that were coming up to stare at me, turns out I was hanging out with shark food.) We talked for a bit as I talked myself through my moments hesitation of paddling hyper-speed to shore. He tells me not to worry the guy who got gnawed on is back out in the water. Ha. Not worried anymore. Caught some great shoulder high sets that came through and it was glorious, although I couldn’t help from keeping an eye on my toes and searching the water for fins. It was at the point that Charles paddled to shore that I felt very alone and after catching a few waves and trying to be stubborn I gave up and paddled franticly toward the sand. Charles did apologize for freaking me out and on our way back through town promised to be my shark buddy. I needed to be toughened up anyways, there are sharky waters ahead.
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