Cruising down the coast to Carmel to get one last surf in before headed to Santa Cruz. Fun heavy beach break again. Thumped on for sure. What am I doing riding a long board in these sets? Need to get on a shorter board. More laughing and more goofy photos with Hannah. Having so much fun together. Blessed with a good companion. Made a phone call to my good friend Evin who lived in Santa Cruz for a spell and gave the number of an old housemate who still lives there. Score….The nicest people and the most open people that I have ever met. Role up to their DW and were so excited about the place. They had left the door open for us…big mistake. We photographed the whole house and then went for surf 2 blocks away one of the best breaks here. What a pleasure….Our friend Darren who works selling fish at the farmers market brought some fresh fish home for tacos and all sorts of people showed up to enjoy the nightly meal at Darren and Phil’s house. Turns out that we are staying in a place that has the most amazing sense of community that I have ever happened upon. Canning and fishing gear is being swapped constantly and smiles on everyone’s faces with a story to share. Everyone seems to know the bartering system well and give what they have and take whatever they need. Just today Mel of Newman’s Own showed up to give a surfboard to a friend who just down the block had just got hers stolen. Even next morning Bill the next-door neighbor who is also one of the chefs of these feasts called us over for bacon and eggs. Spoiled rotten.
The boys were off work this morning so we took some time to get away from all the madness of a busy break and headed north to the creek. Maybe not be best day to try one of Darren’s short boards. (He shapes as well as chefs) So scary…..After being spoiled on an 8’10” grabbing a 6’2” made a big difference. Paddling out was so scary. Head high and coming in fast my paddling skills seemed to move the board about two inches every tenth paddle. My eyes were as big as saucers by the time I made it to the line up. Sometimes I can be a bit overconfident, but no one can say I don’t put myself out there. Sitting on my board an accomplished surfer paddles up to me and tells me to sit further on by board. I guess that by the nose sticking out of the water it informs the elephant seals that you are challenging them. Like I didn’t have enough to worry about… I can laugh now, but at the time I was looking at the rocky face and the pounding waves trying to see the easiest way to paddle in and not get crushed by and incoming set. One of the guys that was surfing with us, Deayes an amazing surfer, but prefers to ride a short foam board, had the courtesy to let me swap boards. I was breathing a little easier after the change, or at least my lip wasn’t quivering and I believe that my eyes had returned to there normal size, but my session was basically done. I let the boys do the ripping for me. One the way home had to stop at and organic strawberry farm and do the jam tasting that they have set up. Yumm. After some apple cider had to get warm and spent a large period of the day trying to make that happen. Lots of jumping jacks.
Made a kick ass dinner for the boys to show our appreciation for them putting us up. Salmon and dill Alfredo over fettuccini, homemade pizza, and salad followed by bacon chocolate. Yum number two for the day.
Thanks boys for letting us stay and showing us the love! Xo to Darren, Phil, Bill, Deayes, Efain, Miguel. To all of those I may have missed, you will not be forgotten. We will be visiting again.
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