Leaving Santa Cruz took a lot of work. We had to repack the car at least 8 times and I think that at one point I realize that Hannah had packed herself into the ca…so everything out again. Stress was high so by the time we left we had about 1 hour of daylight leaving us without exercise for the day and lots of tension about where we were going to be staying and if there was enough time to go for a run. All the stress of all this leading to a sizable fight about a difference of opinion and also a few things that I cannot divulge. Comments were said some flinging of mud, but all in all it was hugs and apologies by the next morning. We had found a beautiful squatting campsite overlooking the ocean. All was right in the world once the sun came up over the cliffs and we were on our merry way. Small ranches and berry u pick farms scattered openly along the cliffs and lazy cattle grazing slowly across the land. The excitement of our spat was beginning to leave us and laughter and music rang throughout the car yet again. I do have to say that although we have not known each other long (4 months) we get along very well which is amazing. So like every relationship it takes a bit of time to realize what buttons are going to set off a small explosion. Fair enough I think.
Anyways, Half Moon Bay. Made a phone call to see if my friend Brett would let us crash at his house that night and turns out that it was no can do, but he was going to ride Mavericks that afternoon. Which if you don’t know it is one if not the biggest breaks in the world. Super heavy wave that can get as big as 40ft and it is tremendously scary. The swell was bringing the waves in at about 15-20ft that day which is nothing to scoff at.
Its funny a wave. You look at a wave that is even head high and think, that’s not that big, but until you realize the power and are staring it in the face that’s when you respect it in all its glory. Unless I loss my mind you will never see me ride Mavericks, because surely it would be my last.
So we roll into this sleepy little marina town, not much going on just about 40 south of San Francisco. There is a nice break right off the 1 and Hannah and I quickly jump in the water. We both needed a good paddle and a few waves for sanity sake nothing clears the mind better. Brett happened to see the car and met us in the waves which was nice and had a good time splashing around and chatting about Venice and how much different it is without me…yeah right. Hannah had to head back because unlike me in a 4:3 she only has a 3:2 suit and was pretty chilly in these waters. So on a mission to get warm and to add to her already growing number of sweaters that she wears a night (8) to be exact. She found a nice thrift store and scored some heavy knitwear from Norway and beyond. Score for her.
Mavericks looks somewhat uneventful due to the fact that the wave breaks a mile offshore, to even approach the line-up it’s a 45min paddle. Up close and even with my camera lens you can see how big it is in proportion. Guys look like toothpicks riding a giant wave. Got some good pictures, but you will have to wait for my camera to get fixed to understand. Crazy stuff. Brett was excited to try out his new gun (big wave board) 10’6”. So off he dashed gun in hand leaving us with Bandit, which was a treat, and we all ran around on the beach until sunset. Had a few beers in town and called it a night. Found a great little campsite to run and gun again. Tired and perfectly content.
Woke and broke camp in about 10 minutes. Found a wonderful diner in town where the conversation of the locals was of a new manure product and techniques on spreading it. Love these people, reminds me a lot of home. Had an old favorite of mine that includes fresh berries and waffles and I couldn’t resist the bacon. Great morning. Also found this amazing place that had the perfect cook stove…we have not yet had a hot meal of our own since leaving Venice. We seemed to have spent hours in this place finding weird things and entertaining ourselves. Finally got back on track and headed for yet another surf, but remembering just in time that Hannah had broken a fin the day before and we needed to find a replacement. Stopped at a surf shop called Mavericks and found in the parking lot (it was pretty industrial around there) two men making wine. In about 3 minutes of conversation I had already grabbed the crank and was helping press the wine from the berries. Wonderful men these two. Hannah and I learned all about the process and terminologies of wine making and got to sample Cabernet that they had been perfecting for years Amazing, Such cool guys the name of the wine is TJ and is out for production for the first time this year. Look for them they are doing amazing things with wine. Heather our new friend at Mavs finally got to the surf shop to opened up. She sorted Han out by finding a used fin around and we were on the surfing path with well wishes from our new friends and a nice bottle given as a gift, pretty nice one at that, its worth about $100. Had so much fun in the water, long rides and almost got barreled I think, but no one was there so I can claim it for sure.
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